London Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2022 returned in full force this month, offering more physical catwalks, as well as creative digital offerings. It’s good to see that sustainability has become commonplace with many brands abandoning the traditional “seasons”. Some designers have added menswear to their spring collections and flowy designs are also a growing trend. Here are ten highlights from a week’s runway shows and presentations of clean, more laid-back fashion.
Paul & Joe
French label Paul & Joe first showed up at London Fashion Week to celebrate its 25th anniversary. The ready-to-wear collection, showcased in a stunning mansion in Mayfair, showcased the brand’s iconic styles, including the men’s fashion-inspired shirt, dresses, jumpsuits and coats.
One of London Fashion Week’s most anticipated presentations was NEWGEN 2021 designer Feben. Recently graduated from Central Saint Martins, her creations are inspired by the nomadism of her own environment (she was born in Korea to Ethiopian parents and grew up in Sweden). Her clothes play with popular imagery that connects all blacks to create an aesthetic vision rooted in the community: a vision that is both familiar and supernatural, accessible and playful but linked to the codes of luxury and manual labor. The designs use a variety of textures and vibrant colors such as fuschia pink, aqua blue, and bright yellow.
For her new collection, Edeline Lee used leftover fabrics in her workshop to create a range of 32 beautiful samples in a wide range of colors. The designer said: “It didn’t feel right to order a new fabric, so I decided to use all the remaining fabrics in the studio – we ended up with 53 colors in the collection.” The Spring / Summer 2022 collection features new interpretations of the brand’s iconic designs loved by Phoebe Waller-Bridge, Solange Knowles, Olivia Colman, Alicia Vikander and many other prestigious clients. Edeline Lee pieces emphasize precision cut, handcrafted detailing, and are designed to fit a wide range of body types. Its signature fabrics resist creasing and are therefore ideal for travel.
British designer Saul Nash’s first solo show took place in an urban setting (there was even a bus stop) that strongly evoked his London roots. The designer, described by Hypebeast as the “next sportswear superstar,” first introduced women’s clothing, though his designs were mostly fluid. Founded in 2018. Saul Nash’s designs cleverly bridge the gap between luxury menswear and sportswear. Using zippers and lightweight materials, the garments are designed to be both functional and stylish. The show demonstrated its dance experience and embraced its London background by featuring friends as models and collaborators.
Isabel Manns eye-catching designs in a colorful palette that includes cobalt blue, green and purple, focus on five key commitments to deliver a circular fashion brand that contributes to fashion sustainability: reversibility, zero waste, made in england, durable fabrics and off-season clothing. Reversible garments are what this brand is known for, with each garment giving you two items in one. The new seasonless collection includes a variety of pieces that can be worn together as an outfit or combined with items from Isabel’s previous collections.
Instead of his usual glitzy parade at Palm Court at the Waldorf Hotel in London, Paul Costelloe opened his studio to showcase his new designs and give industry professionals an intimate glimpse into his working methods. He works entirely by hand, from his initial sketches to hand-crafted fabrics and patterns. Her ethereal new collection in a pastel blue palette was inspired by The Book of Kells, using bespoke linen from Ireland’s oldest linen mill, William Clark.
A new sustainable luxury brand from London College of Fashion graduate Deborah Latouche is one to watch. She uses luxurious end-of-roll fabrics, silks, jacquards and fine cottons, so that each piece is totally unique. The attention to detail and quality of craftsmanship is clear in every room, from flowing dresses to elegant capes. And any design with buttons used vintage buttons. Many actors have already become fans, including Naomie Harris, Sophie Turner and Eric Underwood.
Vogue Met Gala Challenge winner Karina Bondareva showcased some very elaborate fantasy designs that incorporate matches, paper, clay buttons and other unusual materials from her Central Saint Martins graduation show. The Met Gala dress she recreated from Thom Browne’s $ 200,000 design for Cardi B consisted of 500 sheets of red paper.
London-based luxury menswear and womenswear brand Helen Anthony presented an impressive unisex ready-to-wear featuring gorgeous tweed overcoats and jackets. Creative director Naeem Anthony’s Spring / Summer 2022 collection was inspired by the decade of liberation, the 1970s. The eclectic and daring new collection features opulent colors, crisp silhouettes and edgy patent leather.
Anna Mason worked for Karl Lagerfeld in Paris, for MaxMara and Valentino in Italy and for Amanda Wakeley in London before launching her own label in 2012. Anna Mason clothing is feminine, wearable and timeless, the opposite of fast fashion disposable. As new styles and fabrics are introduced each season, many themed elements endure, such as with the Classics range. It was the first time Anna Mason had shown as planned at London Fashion Week and the concept was a “garden of freedom” inspired by Claude Monet’s Giverny. The models featured flowing sleeves and silhouettes of artist’s blouses in pretty floral and cashmere prints, eyelet embroidery, lace and ribbon.
The next edition of London Fashion Week will take place in February 2022.